Be on the lookout for the first signs of attack, picking off any pests found. Weigh up the pros and cons of leaving plants to look after themselves and putting up with some damage, or applying regular preventive sprays to stop pests taking hold.
For instance, gooseberries are almost always attacked by sawfly caterpillars and a preventive spray will stop leaves being eaten away to their skeletons.
Spread nets over soft fruit bushes, such as currants, and over strawberries growing in rows or in containers. Once blackbirds and other birds find fruits to their taste they will return again and again and will quickly strip plants of unprotected fruit.
In a wet year, such as last year, it is not surprising that slugs and snails can become a runaway problem. Most damage occurs during spring to autumn, affecting many ornamental plants and vegetables, especially potato tubers and narcissus flowers.
Soft succulent growth, including seedlings, young tender shoots, leaves and flowers are damaged or eaten, particularly in wet conditions. Underground parts of plants, especially potato tubers and tulip bulbs are tunnelled by black keeled slugs (Milax spp.). Slime trails may be visible near the damaged tissues.
There are about seven species of slugs that are garden pests. They can do damage throughout the year on a wide range of plants, but seedlings and new growth on herbaceous plants in spring are most at risk and may need protection. Most slugs live in or on the soil surface, but keeled slugs (Milax species) live and feed mostly in the root zone. Slugs vary in size from the smaller Deroceras reticulatum (grey field slug, buff coloured form), which is no more than 5cm (2in) long, to Arion ater (large black slug), which can be 12cm (5in) when fully extended. Some slugs vary in colour; Arion ater can be black, orange brown or buff coloured. Warmer weather combined with damp conditions greatly increases their activity.
Slugs remain active throughout the year, unlike snails, which are dormant during autumn and winter. Reproduction occurs mainly in autumn and spring, when clusters of spherical, yellowish-white eggs can be found under logs, stones and pots.
Slugs are most active after dark or in wet weather.
Slugs are so abundant in gardens that some damage has to be tolerated. They cannot be eradicated so target control measures on protecting the more vulnerable plants such as hostas and young vegetable plants.
There are a number of non-chemical and chemical controls you can choose.
A biological control specific to slugs, with no adverse effect on other types of animal, is available in the form of a microscopic nematode or eelwom that is watered into the soil. The nematodes (Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita) enter slugs' bodies and infect them with bacteria that cause a fatal disease.
A moist soil and soil temperatures of 5-20oC are required, therefore control is most effective during spring to early autumn. Best results are achieved by applying in the evening to moist but well-drained soils; control may be less successful in heavy soils, such as clay. The nematode is available from refrigerated cabinets in some garden centres or by mail order from suppliers of biological controls.
Other preventive measures you can take include:
Transplant sturdy plantlets grown on in pots, rather than young vulnerable seedlings. Protect transplants with plastic bottle cloches.
Place traps, such as scooped out half orange, grapefruit or melon skins, laid cut side down, or jam jars part filled with beer and sunk into the soil near vulnerable plants. Check and empty these regularly, preferably every morning. Proprietary traps are available from garden centres.
Place barriers, such as copper tapes (Fito Slug Stoppa Tape, Agralan Copper Slug Tape, Growing Success Slug Barrier Tape) around pots or stand containers on matting impregnated with copper salts (Slug and Snail Shocka, Agralan Slug and Weed Mat). Moisture-absorbent minerals can be placed around plants to create slug barriers (New Horizon Natural Slug Barrier, Fito Slug Stoppa, Growing Success Slug Stop, Vitax Slug Off, Gem Slug n Snail Repellent). Gel repellents (Westland Slug Blocker Eco Barrier Gel, Greenfingers Slug Defence Gel) can also be used to create barriers around plants. All of these products are available from garden centres.
Go out with a torch on mild evenings, especially when the weather is damp, and hand-pick slugs into a container. Take them to a field, hedgerow or patch of waste ground well away from gardens, or destroy them in hot water or a strong salt solution.
Some birds, frogs, toads, hedgehogs, slow-worms and ground beetles eat slugs and these predators should be encouraged in gardens.
Rake over the soil and remove fallen leaves during winter so birds can eat slug eggs that have been exposed.
Scatter metaldehyde slug pellets (Scotts Slug Clear Advanced Pellets, Bio Slug and Snail Killer Pellets, Gem Superslug Killer, Westland Slug Buster Pellets, Westland Slug Attack Mini-pellets, Doff Advanced Slug Killer or Doff Slugoids Slug Killer) thinly around vulnerable plants, such as seedlings and young shoots on herbaceous plants. A liquid formulation of metaldehyde (Scotts Slug Clear) is available for watering on to ornamental plants and the soil. Pellets may harm other wildlife, pets and young children if eaten in quantity, although slug powders based on aluminium sulphate (such as Doff Slug Attack) are less toxic. A relatively new form of pelleted bait containing ferric phosphate (Growing Success Advanced Slug Killer) is also relatively non-toxic to vertebrate animals.
Most plants, once established, will generally tolerate slug damage and control measures can be discontinued
Rabbits feed on a very wide range of garden plants. New plantings and soft growth in spring may be eaten, even on plants that are not susceptible at other times. The image shows damaged hosta shoots.
New shoots on herbaceous plants can be grazed down to ground level. Foliage and soft shoots of woody plants can be grazed up to a height of 50cm (20in) by rabbits standing up on their hind legs.
Bark may be gnawed away from the base of trunks, especially in winter when snow or frost makes other vegetation unavailable. This can kill the tree if bark is removed all the way around the trunk. Partly gnawed trunks should be wrapped in black polythene to encourage the damaged area to callus over. Bridge grafting can sometimes save badly damaged trees, for example on apples. Rabbits also dig holes and scrapes in lawns and flower beds.
Place a wire mesh fence 1.2-1.4m (4-4.5ft) high and 30cm (1ft) below ground level around gardens or flower beds; the bottom 30cm should be angled outwards to deter rabbits from burrowing underneath. The maximum mesh size should be 25-30mm (1in) to prevent young rabbits squeezing through.
For individual plants netting 90cm (3ft) high can be put up, without the need to bury part underground. Wire netting or spiral tree guards can be put around the base of young trees to prevent bark feeding.
An animal repellent, such as Vitax Stay Off or Growing Success Wild Animal Repellent, can be applied to plants. This may not give complete protection, particularly during wet weather or when plants are growing actively. The product called Renardine no longer has approval for use as an animal repellent and is no longer on sale.
It may be possible to discover feeding preferences in the local rabbit population by looking at other nearby gardens. Avoid planting particularly susceptible plants and select those that survive.




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